Tuesday, 29 June 2010

My perfect vista: the city of Seville

After living in Seville for two months, I finally climbed the stairs to the roof terrace of El Faro de Triana. Passing the seafood restaurant every day as I crossed the Guadalquivir from my barrio to the centre, I had come to recognise the waiters and almost memorised the menu.

That October evening, I realised that as tasty as the heaving plates of pescaíto frito were, the view over the city was El Faro's real draw. In one direction was the constant bustle of my street, the riverside party strip Calle Betis. Turning my head, the skyline revealed the city's monuments. I identified the bull ring, the Torre del Oro, and the enormous mass of the cathedral, hulking below the magnificence of its tower, La Giralda, glimmering gold in the late evening light. Taking a deep breath, I realised that I felt at home in this southern city of sensual warmth and welcoming people, so far from my real home in northern England.

The photograph may be blurred, but to me it captures the city's relentless energy; its inability to stay still even as I pressed the shutter. It is constantly filled with light and colour - even when the sun goes down, Seville shines with the soft glow of streetlights and the neon buzz of discotecas' signs. This image transports me back to that evening, with good food in front of me, a glass of wine in my hand, and a sense of belonging in my heart.

This post has been entered into the Grantourismo and HomeAway Holiday Rentals travel blogging competition. 
For more details, click here.
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Saturday, 26 June 2010

My Madrid: Tapas with a difference at La Musa

Back in 2007 when I first visited Madrid, my initial dining experience in the Spanish capital was at La Musa, providing a tantalising introduction to the city's culinary scene. On that Saturday night in January, the Malasaña branch of the trendy tapas joint was buzzing with young punters enjoying mouthwatering dishes such as sizzling barbecued mixed grills and the classic fried green tomatoes topped with goat's cheese.

Three years on and resident in the Spanish capital, I'm still a big fan of La Musa and its tomatoes. The perfect antidote to an overdose on ensaladilla rusa and tortilla de patatas, La Musa offers creative tapas-style dishes from around the world, from twists on Spanish classics to guacamole you pulverise yourself to stir fries (La Latina branch only). The 'garden salad' (€5.75) is a delight of frilly lettuce leaves, sprouted seeds, sesame oil and flower petals. Yes, flower petals. More meaty delights include the now rather overpriced barbecue platter (€16) and wild boar with honey and ali oli (€5.75). Traditional tapas such as mejillones en escabeche also feature, but the memorable menu items are the more creative ones.

Both the mini Malasaña and larger La Latina branches are bustling places, especially as the night wears on and more mojitos are ordered. On weekdays, La Musa Latina is now open for breakfast, expanding from being a purveyor of nocturnal nourishment into the daytime market. With its terraza on Plaza de la Paja, it's ideally located for a bit of al fresco refreshment at any time of day. Both branches also serve an €11 lunchtime menu del dia during the week. But if you want a share of the atmosphere that made La Musa famous along with your tomatoes, visit in the evening for the full experience.

  • La Musa is located on Calle Manuela Malasaña 18 (metro San Bernardo or Bilbao). La Musa Latina is at Costanilla de San Andres 12 (metro La Latina).
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Tuesday, 22 June 2010

The Brit Abroad is a prize winner

I might not have won the prize for the blog itself, but I can still call myself an award winning travel writer, can't I?

I have somehow managed to scoop the Best London Experience prize in Trourist's LO-Month Best Experience competition (quite timely really, as I'll soon be moving to London). For my little entry on Borough Market, I've been awared a fancy Lomography camera, so expect the quality of my blog photos to improve drastically...

You can read all about it here.
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Friday, 18 June 2010

My Madrid: Curry cravings satisfied at Shapla

As an English girl living abroad, I understandably crave food that reminds me of home. No, not scones and clotted cream, fish and chips or even marmite for me, thank you. What I miss the most is curry.

Living in Seville 5 years ago, I once got so desperate for Indian cooking that I paid the extortionate price (well, it seemed steep back then) of €3.50 for a tin of Patak's curry sauce from the local supermarket. After observing that shelf for a year, I can hazard a guess that I was probably the only person to ever purchase any. Thankfully in Madrid there's no need for me to cook up my own mediocre attempt: if I get a curry craving I just head to the barrio of Lavapiés, which is packed full of Indian restaurants.

My personal favourite is Shapla, a no-frills curry house that serves up a huge menu of tasty dishes. In summer, the friendly proprietors shift tables into the street, making a terraza ideal for soaking up the atmosphere of Lavapiés. Everything from korma to vindaloo is on offer here, with an impressive selection of vegetarian options including tarka dal, aloo gobi, palak paneer and a mixed vegetable curry. There are also more flavours of naan bread than you can shake a samosa at: the cheese variety might sound strange, but it certainly tastes good.

The best thing about Shapla is the price: whether I've eaten one of the set menus on offer Monday to Friday (prices from €7 upwards for 4 courses and drink, available at lunchtime and in the evening, beating the standard menú del día hands down) or picked a selection of dishes from the menu, I've never paid more than €10. And in a city that isn't exactly famed for value, that's pretty remarkable.

  • Lavapíés Shapla is located at Calle Lavapiés 42 (metros Lavapiés or Tirso de Molina).
Photo courtesy of Flickr/Magical-World.
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Friday, 11 June 2010

My Madrid: Glamour and games at Café Manuela

As the countdown begins for my departure (yes folks, you read it here first, the Brit Abroad is set to return to the motherland in a few months), I thought it was about time I started to share my favourite places in Madrid with my dear readers. So, every Friday (unless I'm travelling, of course), I'll post details of a bar, restaurant, shop or attraction.

First on my list is Café Manuela, in the cool-without-trying neighbourhood of Malasaña. (By that I mean it doesn't matter if you're wearing scruffy trainers or haven't brushed your hair. Always handy) Unlike the summer terrazas currently popping up all over the city, with Café  Manuela it's what's inside that counts. 

The bar's interior is a winning fusion of old-school glamour and shabby chic: think mirrored walls and stucco pillars teamed with mismatched wooden chairs. The atmosphere is buzzing yet relaxed, as crowds of friends meet up to pore over one of the the bar's main attractions: the board games. Café Manuela keeps a huge stack of games, from Pictionary to Trivial Pursuit, perfect for days when you feel like having a low-key evening rather than a hectic night out. The perfect accompaniment to this throwback to childhood is a mint chocolate milkshake, the bar's speciality (€3.50). On rainy days, cosy up with the winter version: thick mint-infused hot chocolate. Snacks like sandwiches and cakes are also available.

If you're in the mood for a grown-up drink, Café Manuela also offers a selection of wines and a short cocktail list, but my order will always be a milkshake sipped with a side of Scrabble. 

  • Café Manuela is located at Calle de Vicente Ferrer 29 (metro Tribunal).
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Saturday, 5 June 2010

A culinary experience in Lyon, France's gastronomic capital

Lyon is not only France's second-largest metropolis and a thriving business city with a beautiful old quarter, it's also frequently hailed as the country's culinary capital. At the head of the Lyonnais gastro table sits multi Michelin starred chef Paul Bocuse, one of the pioneers of the daintily proportioned nouvelle cuisine. His main restaurant, L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges, is close to Lyon, and Bocuse also runs a chain of four brasseries in the city itself (if only I'd known this before my visit). Those seeking a more substantial meal might prefer to sample some of the earthy, meaty local dishes, including andouillette, a tripe sausage made from pork and chitterlings, and quennelles, another sausage-type concoction of creamed fish, chicken or meat. These dishes often feature alongside steak, black pudding and other carnivorous delights at traditional bouchons; restaurants offering a convivial atmosphere and hearty fare as opposed to a fine dining experience. And if neither of these phenomena appeal; visitors needn't despair: as Lyon's old town has more restaurants per square metre than anywhere else on the planet, you're bound to find something to tempt your tastebuds.

As I was in town for just three nights, my quest for an outstanding and memorable meal was something of a challenge. When you throw in the fact that Lyon's cuisine revolves around meat and I am what is apparently known as a pescatarian, things became even more complicated. 

My first Lyonnais dining experience was admittedly more about refuelling than seeking a culinary epiphany. After spending an afternoon trekking around Vieux Lyon on a tour of its traboules ('secret' covered passages running from one street to the next, designed to prevent silk being carried through the city from being rained on), I was a little bewildered by the bouchons' meaty offerings and chose the vegetarian-friendly escape route offered by Le Panier a Salade on Place Neuve St Jean. Although the menu also featured andouillette and the like, the restaurant's main dish was, you've guessed it, salad. I opted for the Middle Eastern inspired creation, which combined lettuce with houmous (well, a lumpy attempt at it), tzatziki, stuffed vine leaves and a slice of cheese and spinach pie. As gastronomy goes, salad is never going to set the world on fire, but enjoyed at a prime spot on the terrace and accompanied by my first glass of local wine, it was a good choice. Place Neuve St Jean is admittedly something of  a holidaymakers' haven, but it's a bustling, scenic one full of reasonable-value eateries, so tourist-trap dodgers can't complain too much.

After my first night success, I returned to Vieux Lyon for Sunday lunch, but the less said about Cafe Sol the better. Trying to change my fortunes (and taking advantage of my parents' arrival just a little), I went upmarket for the evening at Cafe Epicerie, a chic restaurant run by the equally smart Cour des Loges hotel. The shaded terrace on a quiet street was unfortunately fully booked, so we took a seat inside, where stone walls and sleek black furniture reign. In addition to some tapas-style sharing plates, Cafe Epicerie offers modern meat and fish dishes, including my choice of seared tuna steak with sesame seeds, served with a potato puree. At the not-so-wallet-friendly price of €22, the fish turned out to be a triumph of style over substance: although reasonably tasty, it was only lukewarm and certainly didn't warrant the steep price tag.

The following day, after traipsing past numerous closed restaurants and reeling away from menus in horror when we saw the financial outlay required to dine within, we began to despair of the Lyonnais restaurant scene (and my parents no doubt inwardly cursed my 'pescatarianism'). Wandering through the streets of the Presqu'ile (the area of Lyon that lies between its two rivers, the Rhone and the Saone), we stumbled across L'Interlude, a cute cafe with an outdoor terrace and a minimalist interior. Situated close to the Saone at 8 Rue de la Platiere, L'Interlude offers a dish of the day for just €8.50, in addition to steaks and a selection of salads. My tuna, feta, sundried tomato, lettuce and crispy onion number was perfect on a hot day, washed down by some cool wine, served by the carafe. Friendly service and affordable prices (the salad was also €8.50) made this little spot a winner in my book.

But as nice as L'Interlude was, it wasn't an extraordinary culinary experience. That evening, in an attempt to avoid andouillette-heavy menus and bankruptcy, we set out in search of an Afghan restaurant I had seen advertised. As we circled Vieux Lyon metro station, we saw no sign of it; instead, we stmbled upon what appeared, at first glance, to be an antiques shop. A few rickety tables in the street and an abundance of flowering plants outside the door tempted us to take a closer look. Peeping in through the huge windows, we saw tables laid for dinner, and a lone diner conversing with a man we correctly assumed to be the owner. Far from being an antiques emporium, it was in fact an Algerian restaurant. Drawn in by the inviting scene, we asked for a table for three. The other customer promptly paid and departed, leaving us alone - the owner had disappeared into the kitchen. We nervously awaited the arrival of the menu, wondering if we had made the wrong decision.

After we had spent a few minutes surveying the rustic interior and the contrasting elegant place settings, our friendly host reappeared and presented us with a plate of cumin-spiced olives and an aperitif of rose wine served with creme de peche; a sweet and refreshing combination. He asked if we had seen the menu; chalked up on a small blackboard by the door. With just one set menu every evening, Le Palestro offers its diners a three-course introduction to Algerian cooking. After revealing that night's dishes to us, Mohammed padded barefoot into the kitchen to prepare our starter, making the seamless transition from host to chef.

First up that night was a tuna, salmon and egg brik, a triangle of pastry-encased pescatarian heaven. Mohammed chatted to us as we ate, giving me the opportunity to practise my schoolgirl French and to find out more about him, his family and the restaurant, which has been pleasing Lyonnais palates for the past seven years. Once the last scraps of the tasty starter had vanished, it was time for Mohammed to get to work on course number 2: an Algerian salad.

Despite my reservations about the culinary worth of salad, I was far from disappointed. In addition to the standard lettuce, my plate was filled with cucumber, tomato, beetroot, egg, a bean salad, peppers and salmon, all delicately and deliciously spiced. Instead of the salmon, my meat-eating parents were delighted with their generous serving of merguez sausages, which would easily have fed an entire family at a barbecue. After this feast, we were apprehensive about tackling an equally substantial dessert, so the fruit salad garnished with mint that was placed before us was a welcome sight. Finally, we were served with a pot of fresh mint tea; the perfect conclusion to the evening. After a further chat, it was time to settle the hand-written bill of €30 per head, shake hands and say our goodbyes, before wandering home through the cobbled street, our stomachs contentedly full of good food. My mission to enjoy an outstanding meal in France's gastronomic capital was officially accomplished, and came with the bonus of feeling I had discovered both a restaurant off the beaten track and another country's cuisine. OK so it wasn't French, but let's not split hairs.

  • Le Palestro is located at 10 Rue Mourguet in Lyon and is open daily. Reservations can be made on +33 (0)478928091 .
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